Much of the food here revels in old-fashioned appeal. If the pulled smoked chicken is a bit of a bore, and the chili smacks of too much sweetener, they are outmuscled by some real crowd-pleasers: meaty and crusty pork ribs, suffused with the scent of hickory and apple wood, for example. Even tastier is the pulled smoked pork. Like many of the meat selections, it is offered either as a sandwich or as a plate with corn bread and a choice from eight other side dishes. Marinated and slow-smoked, “Lee’s Texas brisket” is shaved into a heap of thin slices but tastes just okay. The brisket is greatly improved with a splat or a splash of one of Urban’s sauces, either the thick “yella,” with mustard, tomato, onion, lemon and such, or the thin but assertive “Carolina sop,” its cider vinegar and red pepper punch countered by molasses. (The simply named “red” sauce is smoky but cloying.) The crab cake looks out of place, like Anna Nicole Smith at a state dinner, but one taste of the fat, fresh patty and you’ll be glad it has been included on this meat-stacked menu.